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Advice: best bet/which looks better - 40S or 40R?

mercredi 30 septembre 2015

So, I've been doing lots of homework. And lots of measuring. Have traditional bought 40R, but realizing that a 40S may be more appropriate. No matter, since I'm buying several new suits and getting rid of all my old ones.

So, here we are: finger curl test - 40S works much better with no fabric balling up in cupped portion of fingers (40R, there is an inch or so of lift from the bottom). Also measured (with shoes on) bottom of shirt collar to ground..half of this measurement would be 29.5 to 29.75 for the proper sized/length jacket.

I have two identical Saks Black Made in Italy suits (from Off 5th - I've decide that these are the sweet spot for me for fabric quality, construction and price). Jacket length ranges form 29 on the short to 30.5 on the R. Neither ideal for my measurement.

If I go by the photos of suit models on various websites, the short looks like the way to go. Photos below are with jeans - which I actually may be more likely to wear the jacket with more often than the slacks (gasp!). Rise difference in pants makes no difference to me (on these Saks suits anyway), so just trying to figure out better length-wise:


Front:

Back:

Side:

So, what say you?
Advice: best bet/which looks better - 40S or 40R?