JHaving been an avid purchaser of Carmina and Meermin shoes, I've been aware of the past existence of the illustrious shoemaker Yanko. Unfortunately this proliferate company succumbed to cheap Asian made competition, was restructured, then went into bankruptcy. During this period, some family members left and created Carmina, while the other sons remained at Yanko under the new ownership, only to later leave and start Meermin. The new Yanko was resurrected by new investors who have no connection to the family, but have attempted to restore the brand to its old glory, even using some of the original workman in their factory town of Inca.
Knowing that the Albaladejo family had no connection to the new company, I was hesitant about giving them a try. However I have grown weary of waiting for Bonafe, Meermin, or Carmina to produce the boot I needed for my wardrobe, a navy leather and suede bal boot. Upon seeing such a boot in the Boot Porn thread and being directed to the Polish retailer who carries it, I decided to take the chance and jump in. My only real concern was that for some reason this retailer only stocks G widths, and waiting for an F to be produced would take 3 months, and the boot season would be over. So I ordered the 9G and hoped for the best. I've now had them for a week and a half, and given them 2 wears. I'm ready to report my experience.
,
Where to begin?
Purchasing and delivery:
The website is in Polish, so open it with Google Chrom for instant translation. E-mail the company (in English) for a code to remove VAT. They will send you a 19% discount code good for 2 weeks. The products will arrive in less than 2 weeks after clearing customs. They are delivered by USPS and I received NO customs duties. They come pakagex in a handsome blue box with the Yanko logo which cryptically says Hamdmade on top and Yanko since 1890 on the side (Ha! Rather deceptive). Navy tissue paper, 2 heavy duty navy cloth shoe bags emblazoned with the Yanko name, and the appropriate leather smell.
So far, so good.
Materials:
The boots and shoes are box calf. I have compared the grain to my Carminas, Bonafe, and C&J hand grade boots. The grain is very close to Carmina, with possibly a bit more prominence of the pores. The thickness and feel of the leather is similar. With the C&Js, forget about it, it's not a fair comparison. The Yanko and Carmina both looked nice, but side by side with the C&J, the difference in smoothness of the grain and depth of luster is obvious. But so is the difference in price tag. I'm not astute enough to have noticed any more difference between the Bonnie and Yanko, than I did with the Carmina. let's just say they are equivillent in look, but Bonafe's leather feels thicker.
I could only compare the suede to Bonafe, Meermin, and C&J. The Yanko is softer than the Meermin quite noticeably, and thicker with a denser nap. The Bonafe and C&J, take this difference up a notch. Interestingly, when wearing the various suede shafted boots, I have found that the stiffer Meermin suede offers an advantage over the more refined softer suedes. There is less buckling of the bottom of the shaft when walking or bending ones ankle. This does not translate into a stiff uncomfortable feel, but gives a cleaner look. My feeling, is that Meermin suede compared to the others, would not wear as well on the body of a shoe or boot, but on the shaft of a boot where it is protected from wear and tear, this lower quality, stiffer suede may paradoxically offer an advantage.
Shoelaces:
these are not waxes, but a heavier shoe lace very similar to Carmina's. I suspect they use the same local supplier, as they both have the same major problem. They suck! The only shoelaces I have that have failed after a few uses have been Carmina's. This has occurred on 4 boots so far, and while annoying, I have solved the problem by keeping a large supply of replacement laces on hand. Yanko goes a step further in the shoelace suckiness department. One lace came pre-frayed 1/3 way down, and had to be replaced after the first wear. A minor point, easily resolvable, but makes you wonder, Why?
Heels Welt, and Soles:
Same old same old. Stacked leather heels with rubber heel cap. Rubber sole over a leather midsole. I don't know what they use, it's not the same pattern one sees on Danite, but feels similar. GYW, with a welt profile that is sleeker than any of the others, save C&J which could pass for Blake stitched, it's that tightly cropped.
Interior:
Cool beans: Hidden eyelets! The speed hooks are a pewter color to go better with the navy. They appear to be strong and imalliable. Fully leather lined of course, with a one piece full leather insole, and sock liner. There is a lace keeper slot on the tongue.
Finish:
Flawless. Honestly. All stitching straight and even, no loose threads. No marring of the leather or finish. Even coloration. Symmetrical, perpendicular toe caps with every hole cleanly punched. Good toe cap placement, even positioning of the upper on the sole. Clean centered heels, no extraneous glue or markings interiorly. Poorly made pre-frayed laces.
Last but not least:
A picture is worth a thousand words, I hope they do justice, and give you a feel for the differences. I have them compared to the high boots I own. C&J handgrade bal, Carmina Rain derby, Carmina Forest derby and bal, Carmina Robert bal, Bonafe 386 Mod bal, Meermin Hiro bal and derby.
With Carmina Robert
With Carmina Rain
With Carmina Forest
j
With Bonafe 380 Mod
With C&J Handgrade
With Meermin Hiro
My consensus is these are closest to Carmina Rain in look and feel, with a bit more rounded toe, but not as wide and rounded as the Forest. The vamp is high enough to accommodate a high instep. All in all the fit is similar to the Meermin Hiro, to the point , that it wouldn't surprise me if this was the basis for the Hiro last, as the Meermin founders worked at the new Yanko before moving out on their own. Now I'm at a bit of a disadvantage as the Yanko are G width. I really need the F width. I needed a plain Dr. Scholl's insert and a heel pad to compensate for the extra width. They fit fine with this jury rigging, and I suspect based on the overall proportions, that the F would be perfect for those who find Robert, or Forest comfortable. I think Rain is a bit snugger in the toe box, but then again, I wear all those and Detroit without difficulty.
Overall:
These boots are flawless, and I really, really, tried to find a problem with them. Quality wise and style wise they are a Carmina duplicate. Prior to Carmina's huge price increase, I would have had a hard time choosing between them. At $305 ex-VAT door to door, they are a better choice than a Carmina of the same style and color. They are a step up from Meermin (and of course AE which I didn't even waste my time comparing), and not in the Bonafe or C&J category, with which they are not priced to compete.
Look out Carmina, Grandad is back and gunning for you.
Yanko: Everything old, is new again The
Knowing that the Albaladejo family had no connection to the new company, I was hesitant about giving them a try. However I have grown weary of waiting for Bonafe, Meermin, or Carmina to produce the boot I needed for my wardrobe, a navy leather and suede bal boot. Upon seeing such a boot in the Boot Porn thread and being directed to the Polish retailer who carries it, I decided to take the chance and jump in. My only real concern was that for some reason this retailer only stocks G widths, and waiting for an F to be produced would take 3 months, and the boot season would be over. So I ordered the 9G and hoped for the best. I've now had them for a week and a half, and given them 2 wears. I'm ready to report my experience.
,Where to begin?
Purchasing and delivery:
The website is in Polish, so open it with Google Chrom for instant translation. E-mail the company (in English) for a code to remove VAT. They will send you a 19% discount code good for 2 weeks. The products will arrive in less than 2 weeks after clearing customs. They are delivered by USPS and I received NO customs duties. They come pakagex in a handsome blue box with the Yanko logo which cryptically says Hamdmade on top and Yanko since 1890 on the side (Ha! Rather deceptive). Navy tissue paper, 2 heavy duty navy cloth shoe bags emblazoned with the Yanko name, and the appropriate leather smell.
So far, so good.
Materials:
The boots and shoes are box calf. I have compared the grain to my Carminas, Bonafe, and C&J hand grade boots. The grain is very close to Carmina, with possibly a bit more prominence of the pores. The thickness and feel of the leather is similar. With the C&Js, forget about it, it's not a fair comparison. The Yanko and Carmina both looked nice, but side by side with the C&J, the difference in smoothness of the grain and depth of luster is obvious. But so is the difference in price tag. I'm not astute enough to have noticed any more difference between the Bonnie and Yanko, than I did with the Carmina. let's just say they are equivillent in look, but Bonafe's leather feels thicker.
I could only compare the suede to Bonafe, Meermin, and C&J. The Yanko is softer than the Meermin quite noticeably, and thicker with a denser nap. The Bonafe and C&J, take this difference up a notch. Interestingly, when wearing the various suede shafted boots, I have found that the stiffer Meermin suede offers an advantage over the more refined softer suedes. There is less buckling of the bottom of the shaft when walking or bending ones ankle. This does not translate into a stiff uncomfortable feel, but gives a cleaner look. My feeling, is that Meermin suede compared to the others, would not wear as well on the body of a shoe or boot, but on the shaft of a boot where it is protected from wear and tear, this lower quality, stiffer suede may paradoxically offer an advantage.
Shoelaces:
these are not waxes, but a heavier shoe lace very similar to Carmina's. I suspect they use the same local supplier, as they both have the same major problem. They suck! The only shoelaces I have that have failed after a few uses have been Carmina's. This has occurred on 4 boots so far, and while annoying, I have solved the problem by keeping a large supply of replacement laces on hand. Yanko goes a step further in the shoelace suckiness department. One lace came pre-frayed 1/3 way down, and had to be replaced after the first wear. A minor point, easily resolvable, but makes you wonder, Why?
Heels Welt, and Soles:
Same old same old. Stacked leather heels with rubber heel cap. Rubber sole over a leather midsole. I don't know what they use, it's not the same pattern one sees on Danite, but feels similar. GYW, with a welt profile that is sleeker than any of the others, save C&J which could pass for Blake stitched, it's that tightly cropped.
Interior:
Cool beans: Hidden eyelets! The speed hooks are a pewter color to go better with the navy. They appear to be strong and imalliable. Fully leather lined of course, with a one piece full leather insole, and sock liner. There is a lace keeper slot on the tongue.
Finish:
Flawless. Honestly. All stitching straight and even, no loose threads. No marring of the leather or finish. Even coloration. Symmetrical, perpendicular toe caps with every hole cleanly punched. Good toe cap placement, even positioning of the upper on the sole. Clean centered heels, no extraneous glue or markings interiorly. Poorly made pre-frayed laces.
Last but not least:
A picture is worth a thousand words, I hope they do justice, and give you a feel for the differences. I have them compared to the high boots I own. C&J handgrade bal, Carmina Rain derby, Carmina Forest derby and bal, Carmina Robert bal, Bonafe 386 Mod bal, Meermin Hiro bal and derby.
With Carmina Robert
With Carmina Rain
With Carmina Forest
jWith Bonafe 380 Mod
With C&J Handgrade
With Meermin Hiro
My consensus is these are closest to Carmina Rain in look and feel, with a bit more rounded toe, but not as wide and rounded as the Forest. The vamp is high enough to accommodate a high instep. All in all the fit is similar to the Meermin Hiro, to the point , that it wouldn't surprise me if this was the basis for the Hiro last, as the Meermin founders worked at the new Yanko before moving out on their own. Now I'm at a bit of a disadvantage as the Yanko are G width. I really need the F width. I needed a plain Dr. Scholl's insert and a heel pad to compensate for the extra width. They fit fine with this jury rigging, and I suspect based on the overall proportions, that the F would be perfect for those who find Robert, or Forest comfortable. I think Rain is a bit snugger in the toe box, but then again, I wear all those and Detroit without difficulty.
Overall:
These boots are flawless, and I really, really, tried to find a problem with them. Quality wise and style wise they are a Carmina duplicate. Prior to Carmina's huge price increase, I would have had a hard time choosing between them. At $305 ex-VAT door to door, they are a better choice than a Carmina of the same style and color. They are a step up from Meermin (and of course AE which I didn't even waste my time comparing), and not in the Bonafe or C&J category, with which they are not priced to compete.
Look out Carmina, Grandad is back and gunning for you.
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